Dining Spotlight

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By Toni Woodard

Tucked on the north side of a strip mall at an East Vancouver intersection is a tasty pizza joint with a fun theme: Felony Pizza. 

The theme is criminal. All the appetizers and signature pizzas have crime-oriented names like Public Enemy, the Warden’s Special, and the Offshore Account. The walls are decorated with mug shots of infamous FBI Wanteds, and the color scheme is bright orange and black. The background music is classic rock, played at a reasonable volume to allow conversation.

A small section of the restaurant is set aside as a bar. Seating in the adult-only area consists of tall, padded bistro seats. I opted for these to keep my cranky back happy. The main restaurant has metal chairs with metal backs, which are comfortable enough for a quick meal, but you won’t want to linger. 

Always eager to eat pickles, I was excited to try the Shank appetizer (2 for $10). It was a deep-fried concoction: two large dill pickle spears wrapped in egg rolls and stuffed with Tillamook sharp white cheddar cheese. 

The pickles arrived very hot, allowing me time to sample the accompanying roasted red bell pepper aioli dipping sauce, which was mildly kicky and very tasty. I was a little disappointed with the pickles, which were more of an egg roll wrap than a pickle. Perhaps two spears would be better. The Shiv (3 for $14) — jalapeños, cheese, sausage and peppers stuffed in a fried egg roll — might be a better option next time. 

My husband and I tried both salad options ($8, small; $13, large). My green salad was filled with fresh, crunchy mixed greens, red onions, cherry tomatoes and cucumbers. It was sprinkled with Gorgonzola crumbles, which was a nice departure from the typical feta. The accompanying raspberry vinaigrette was fantastic: tons of flavor and just enough raspberry seeds to help me know it was made with actual raspberries.

My husband’s Caesar salad was the expected combination of romaine lettuce, Parmesan cheese, croutons and a lightly tangy Caesar dressing. Although the salad was crunchy and tasted fine, many of the romaine leaves were browning, which is one of my salad pet peeves. My husband was unbothered; I was happy with my green salad.

Felony Pizza offers two sizes of pizza. The regular size is 14 inches and would likely serve two to three people. At 10 inches, the individual pies are quite large, depending on your appetite and appetizer order. My husband finished his personal pizza; I brought half of mine home. Gluten-free crusts are available for an additional $4.50 and are 12 inches in diameter.

My husband ordered the Enforcer pizza (10-inch, $14; 14-inch, $29). It was loaded with high-quality ingredients including mozzarella, Tillamook cheddar cheese, house-made fennel sausage, pepperoni, Canadian bacon and fresh garlic. 

The ingredients were fresh, and the sausage was only lightly fennel-y. I love fennel sausage, so I was a little disappointed, but I suspect it was just the right amount for most palates. The red sauce base had a nice tang. I love red sauce, so next time I will order extra sauce.

Deciding to try something a little different, I ordered the Genovese pizza (10-inch, $14; 14-inch, $28). It had an Alfredo pesto sauce with cheese, shredded chicken, red onions, artichoke hearts and tomatoes piled on top. Again, all the ingredients were fresh and high quality. The shredded chicken was a nice change from the typical broiled morsels. 

Both pizzas had a great crust: thin on the bottom with wonderfully crunchy and chewy edges. A side of either the Alfredo sauce or the red sauce would be great for dipping the edges like breadsticks.

On a future visit, I want to try the light healthfulness of the Caprese skewers appetizer (4 for $8) with mozzarella balls, basil leaves and cherry tomatoes on a skewer stick, drizzled with balsamic vinegar. 

I am also curious about the Green Light pizza (10-inch, $14; 14-inch, $27). This vegan option (Felony has several) features red sauce, mushrooms, red onions, green bell peppers, black olives, tomatoes and artichoke hearts. With fewer appetizers, I would also love to try the cannoli ($8) for dessert.

Felony Pizza opened about three years ago (there’s a second, newer location in Gresham). It’s a casual, friendly, fun pizza joint with an extensive bar menu that includes cocktails ($10-$12), 

spirits, beer in cans and on tap ($5-$7) and a modest selection of wines ($9 per glass). It also has a strong takeout business. The website provides the complete menu, and the social media accounts (Facebook and Instagram) feature lots of mouthwatering photos that will convince you to give Felony Pizza a try.

Felony Pizza

6700 N.E. 162nd Ave, Suite 411

(in Safeway shopping center)

360-718-7724

11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily

www.felonypizza.com

Facebook: 

www.facebook.com/felonypizzavancouver

Instagram: @felonypizzavancouver

Toni Woodard is enthusiastic about food, fairs, llamas and writing. She is the author of “I’m Fine: A Practical Guide to Life with Chronic Pain.” Contact her at toniisfine@outlook.com.