Dining Spotlight
Good stuff at Gustav’s!
By Toni Woodard
If you’ve been in Clark County for a while, chances are you’ve heard of Gustav’s. A staple of German dining in Vancouver, Gustav’s had a long history and a loyal following. But life happens, and the restaurant was sold to new owners in 2023.
I realized I needed to check out Gustav’s revamp for myself when a young friend raved about trying its chicken schnitzel on a trip home from college. I was not disappointed!
Located in the heart of Fisher’s Landing, Gustav’s is a surprising and delightful escape to Germany. The dining rooms are wooden, with peaked ceilings festooned with colorful flags and one room featuring a crackling fireplace. So warm and cozy!
Although the beverage menu — especially the list of beers — is quite extensive, Gustav’s food menu fits neatly on one page. Still, I had a hard time deciding what to order. Then my eyes settled on the Bavarian Feast ($28), which is a sampler platter for the conflicted. Schnitzel, meatballs, a bratwurst, mashed potatoes, red cabbage and German potato salad? Perfect!
My husband and I started with an order of fondue ($10), which included pieces of white and dark bread. We could have added a sausage ($6), pretzel ($5) or carrots and apples ($4) to our dipping options, but we decided to save that for next time.
The Swiss cheese fondue was perfectly thick and creamy, easily coating our skewered bread without dripping all over the table. At first taste, I thought the warm sauce was a little too salty. However, it paired well with the mild bread, and I found myself appreciating the balance and the hints of nutmeg.
My husband ordered the chicken schnitzel ($21). I fully expected him to help me with my feast. Instead, when our plates arrived, I realized we both would be taking home leftovers. The portions were large and could be happily shared. That said, my husband’s leftover schnitzel was eagerly eaten for lunch the next day, so we were glad for the extra food.
I toured around my Bavarian Feast and quickly found favorites. The chicken schnitzel lived up to the hype. Essentially, the breaded chicken breast was really good fried chicken, with a moist, crunchy, seasoned crust. The accompanying brown sauce was fantastic. Made by reducing Madeira wine and adding some butter and other seasonings, the sauce had a meaty, savory flavor that I had to resist adding to everything on my plate.
I also loved the German potato salad, which looked like scalloped potatoes with bacon and chives, but it had a tangy, vinegary sauce instead of cheese. The salad was more interesting than the mashed potatoes, which were also included in my feast. The mashed potatoes were done well — creamy and with a touch of nutmeg — but I preferred the potato salad.
The beef and pork meatballs (sold as an entrée called Königsberg Klopse for $21) were excellent. They were meaty, moist and flavorful. I was surprised by the accompanying lemon caper sauce, but it paired wonderfully with the lightly seasoned meatballs.
I was honestly a little scared to try the bratwurst (sold as an entrée for $18 for two). It looked like a search for antacid waiting to happen. However, the brat was much milder and less greasy than feared. It was moist and perfectly chewy with a snappy casing, and was delicious slathered with the accompanying stone-ground mustard. No Tums needed!
I was not super excited about the red cabbage, which was served warm with a hint of clove. It was a little too mushy and was not as vinegary as I’d hoped. It was prepared well; it just wasn’t to my liking. However, my husband graciously shared some of the spaetzle that came with his schnitzel. Boiled little clumps of doughy, nutmeggy goodness, Gustav’s version of this German pasta is worth ordering as a side ($7) if your entrée does not come with it.
Gustav’s has a daily happy hour from 2-5 p.m. and a late-night happy hour from 9-10 p.m. I plan to visit during these quieter periods to take advantage of the smaller portions. I am eager to try some other menu items, such as the Kartoffelpuffers potato pancakes ($6 for two), the Kohlroulade cabbage rolls with beef and pork ($9) and the prime rib sliders ($8).
Gustav’s menus are posted on its website, with many gluten-free options noted throughout. The restaurant also has an active social media presence, posting the same content on both its Facebook and Instagram pages.
Gustav’s
1705 S.E. 164th Ave., Vancouver
360-883-0222
11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100094917525579 or search “Gustav’s”
Instagram: @gustavsvancouver
Toni Woodard is enthusiastic about food, fairs, llamas and writing. She is the author of “I’m Fine: A Practical Guide to Life with Chronic Pain.” Contact her at toniisfine@outlook.com.
