Dining Spotlight

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By Toni Woodard

I was recently in the mood for breakfast-for-lunch: something hearty and straightforward, served in a cozy, homey atmosphere. I blame the rain.

Asking around, I was told about Victoria’s Café. Located in an old wooden house not far from the historic Fort Vancouver and Officers Row, it hit the spot.

Open daily for breakfast and lunch, Victoria’s is clearly a local favorite. During my meal, several customers entered the restaurant and were greeted by the waitstaff with first names. Strangers chatted easily, and the friendly staff made sure coffee cups were topped off.

Victoria’s menu is a nice variety of breakfast fare (skillets, omelets, waffles, eggs and pancakes) as well as lunch options (sandwiches, burgers, entrée salads, chili and soup). Nothing is particularly exotic or creative, just good, basic coffee-shop food. I decided to try the Cajun Skillet with an accompanying side of scrambled eggs ($17.99). My husband ordered the ham and cheese omelet with hash browns and a pair of pancakes ($15.99).

While I am not sure I would call them Cajun, the tasty blend of slightly kicky spices in my skillet should not be considered off-limits to less adventuresome palates. Crispy triangles of potatoes were blended with hunks of moist fried chicken, cooked tomato chunks and chopped onions. 

The mixture was topped with melted cheddar cheese and my chosen scrambled eggs. The eggs were firm without being overcooked, which I appreciated. I enjoyed the flavors and textures of all the ingredients and did not add any condiments to the skillet. Admittedly, I doused my eggs with the provided Tapatio sauce since Tabasco was not available.

My husband’s omelet was a solid, basic, unassuming version of the breakfast staple. The diced ham was slightly sweet, like a maple-glazed or honey-baked ham. The accompanying hash browns were appropriately crispy without being greasy, and the pancakes were the hoped-for delivery system for lots of maple syrup. Overall, it was a fine selection that my husband finished without complaint.

On a future visit, I want to try the chicken and waffles ($15.99) since I overheard regulars raving about it, plus I suspect the tasty chicken chunks in my skillet were what is used in the dish. 

Similarly, since I liked the breading on my skillet’s chicken bits, I would like to try the chicken-fried steak and eggs ($16.99). Lunchwise, the Texas BBQ Burger ($16.99) caught my eye: onion rings, bacon, barbecue sauce, Swiss cheese, and assorted veggies topping an all-beef burger. The chicken noodle soup ($7.99) and beef stew ($7.99) also sound like hearty, delicious comfort food on a cold, rainy day.

Overall, I enjoyed Victoria’s Café as much for the cozy, friendly atmosphere as for the basic, well-prepared coffee shop food. The dining room’s wooden floors and chairs, and lightly floral wallpaper, give the café a homey, last-century feel. Parking is a little tricky behind the house, but it allows easier access to a ramp if stairs are not your thing. Otherwise, street parking is available in the surrounding neighborhood. Victoria’s was pretty quiet on a weekday at 1:30 p.m. I suspect it might be more lively during traditional breakfast hours.

Victoria’s Cafe

2626 E. Evergreen Blvd., Vancouver

360-836-8993

Hours: 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m. daily

www.victoriascafevancouver.com

Toni Woodard is enthusiastic about food, fairs, llamas and writing. She is the author of “I’m Fine: A Practical Guide to Life with Chronic Pain.” Contact her at toniisfine@outlook.com.